Stories | Restaurant Review
Unchained Links
Published Aug. 13, 2008
Stately, plump Bruce Aidells came from the smoker bearing a bowl in which a sausage and a French roll lay crossed. That was some 30 years ago, and Aidells's original creations were the start of the ...
North (Park) Sea
Published Aug. 6, 2008
When the Linkery moved north and Sea Rocket took over its former quarters, I could barely contain myself. Seafood in North Park, less than ten minutes from home via my favorite scenic “Secret Freeway” (Pershing ...
Au-Some Cooking
Published July 30, 2008
When I ate at Molly’s during June “Restaurant Week,” the place should have been at least as packed as Ruth’s Chris was the previous night. The food was vastly better, the wine list more interesting ...
Track of the Sushi Cat Published July 23, 2008
It’s like that Bible story of Ruth and Naomi: “Whither thou goest, I will go.” Or that girl-group song of the ’60s: “I will follow ... More Post a comment
Git Along, Little Bison Published July 16, 2008
A recent issue of Vogue showcased a shot of Nicole Kidman in period costume, gazing aristocratically into the distance from atop a white dappled horse. ... More Comments (4)
Summer Break on Steak Published July 9, 2008
My pal Samurai Jim is in some ways a paragon of the classic Bachelorus americanus species. He loves good Scotch, good red meat, a brisk ... More Comment (1)
Back to South Beach Published July 2, 2008
The summer I was six, my mom and I (plus two platinum-blond, leather-skinned aunts resembling Marge Simpson’s sisters, and a sweet, bald uncle) spent a ... More Comments (2)
A Great Escape Published June 25, 2008
Red Marlin is the answer. If you can find it. The questions are: Where do you take visitors for dinner when you want to show ... More Comment (1)
Dixie-Fried Published June 18, 2008
Since the last time I reviewed Chateau Orleans for Mardi Gras, 2001, it’s been through at least two changes of ownership. I wasn’t crazy about ... More Comments (4)
Italian Green Published June 11, 2008
The old Naval Training Center at Point Loma is now a perfect new neighborhood, a salmon-colored village with shops, groceries, restaurants, and even an arts ... More Post a comment
Chefs Call Him "Awesome" Published June 4, 2008
Nearly every week, I pour myself a glass of Japanese fizzy-water (Nigori sake), take a deep breath, and call up some rank stranger — the ... More Post a comment
The Farmwife and the Pirate Published May 28, 2008
First it was Fresh, a pricey seafood house owned by Sammy Ladecki (of Roppongi and pizza-chain fame). Then Ladecki sold it in August 2006 to ... More Comment (1)
Odalisques on a Plate Published May 21, 2008
Sometimes change is good. Take Parallel 33. “It’s right in my neighborhood, but I haven’t eaten here in years,” said the Lynnester, buttering her baguette ... More Post a comment
That Breathless Charm Published May 14, 2008
A few days before the grand opening of the splashy new Dish restaurant-nightclub in Hillcrest, I decided to check out one of its forerunners. Dish ... More Post a comment
The Tao of Dough Published May 7, 2008
Over the door is the “dough” — the Chinese ideogram for the Tao (pronounced “doe”), meaning “the way” in general, and in Taoism, the way ... More Post a comment
Wannabe Sexy Exy Published April 30, 2008
The E in Exy is actually the Greek letter sigma (for S), so the restaurant’s name really transliterates to something like “Sexy,” and that’s what ... More Comments (4)
Farm-Fresh French Published April 23, 2008
At Farm House Cafe, chef-owner Olivier Bioteau claims to serve “rustic French cooking.” That he does — if you remember that France is a country ... More Comments (2)
Carla Plans a Party Published April 16, 2008
“Sweetheart?” coos Carla. “Honey? My heart? Mi corazón?” When Carla slips into Spanish and uses “th” for the z, something’s up. “Uh-huh?” “Call from my ... More Post a comment
Neighborhood of E-ville Published April 9, 2008
Block by block, the redeveloping East Village (which I nicknamed “E-Ville” when it all started) is indeed becoming a high-rise, high-priced condo neighborhood, complete with ... More Comment (1)
The Kiss of the Sea Urchin Published April 2, 2008
Sushi lovers think of sea urchin roe as the Japanese delicacy called uni, a coral-colored, spongy-velvety, sexy-tasting maritime fluff perched atop a puck of seasoned ... More Comment (1)
Chain of Gold Published March 26, 2008
No, to answer everybody’s first question, the flashy new Gaslamp Nobu is no relation to our sweet and humble Solana Beach Nobu, owned by Nobu ... More Post a comment
Delivered Chef Dinners Published March 19, 2008
Sometimes, the second-to-last thing you want to do is dress up, get in the car, and go to a restaurant. The only alternative that’s worse? ... More Post a comment
The Italian Cooking of Joy Published March 12, 2008
Attention, all New York expats and other lovers of indulgent, exuberant Italian food: That terrific “secret” Mulberry Street restaurant you loved and still miss has ... More Comments (3)
New Venice Published March 5, 2008
Alexander’s is the new North Park spin-off of very old Old Venice in Point Loma, where the latter is popular, if perhaps taken for granted. ... More Comment (1)
Don't Bore -- Explore! Published Feb. 27, 2008
The Better Half is a restaurant after my own heart, and the hearts of all adventurous foodies. Almost everybody I know (including the pickiest, crankiest, ... More Post a comment
The Devil in the Details Published Feb. 20, 2008
Among the many new restaurants opening along the formerly starved 30th Street corridor, the one that’s generated the most buzz is Urban Solace, a giant ... More Comments (2)
Tryst Sweetly, Discreetly Published Feb. 6, 2008
Sally’s has a long-standing reputation as one of San Diego’s most romantic destinations for lovers. It’s an outbuilding behind the Manchester Grand Hyatt at the ... More Post a comment
Gourmet Gluttony Published Jan. 30, 2008
This year, for the first time since 1994, the 33rd annual winter Fancy Food Show came to San Diego, occupying the belly of the Convention ... More Post a comment
Early Bird Gets the Duck Published Jan. 23, 2008
Breathe a sigh of relief: It’s not your grandma’s Chez Loma anymore. The lovely, long-running Coronado bistro has sprung back to vivid life with new ... More Comment (1)
Time Travel Published Jan. 16, 2008
I suspect that all middle-class (and up) native San Diegans have dined at Rainwater’s on Kettner at least once — for a birthday, a graduation, ... More Post a comment
Eating Rite Published Jan. 9, 2008
This is how far we’ve come: An affordable new neighborhood eatery, warm and pretty but unpretentious, serving humanely raised natural Niman meats, precious Jidori chicken, ... More Post a comment
Chow of Thao Published Jan. 2, 2008
If you and your eating buddies feel like tasting your way through several Asian countries and are looking for economy fare, then Chow is designed ... More Comment (1)
Pepe's Place Published Jan. 2, 2008
“Gang warily,” my Scottish grandpa said. “Go carefully, ’specially when it comes to birthday surprises. Women hate them.” I was thinking of that the other ... More Post a comment
The Rainbow Sign Published Dec. 27, 2007
We are a frazzled, worried country after seven years of every important decision being decided wrong by that "deciderator" and the awful gray eminences whispering ... More Post a comment
Transformer Published Dec. 20, 2007
In probably every English-speaking big city in the world, there's a Hotel Pickwick -- a quaintly faux-Victorian (yet divey) one-star habitation, usually located near a ... More Comment (1)
Good Soup as Good as Jazz Published Dec. 13, 2007
It was a dark and stormy night. (Well, it was. ) And that night, as the rain streamed down and sideways onto Third Avenue, forming ... More Post a comment
Good Jazz Beats All Food Published Dec. 6, 2007
For author Marcel Proust, the taste of a madeleine, a beloved pastry of childhood, evoked nostalgic memories that subsequently unleashed thousands of pages of prose ... More Post a comment
To Ota, with a Sensei and a Nisei Published Nov. 29, 2007
**** 1/2 (Excellent to Extraordinary) 4529 Mission Bay Drive (at Bunker Hill Street), Pacific Beach, 858-270-5670. HOURS: Saturday--Monday 5:30--10:30 p.m., Tuesday--Friday 11 a.m.--2 p.m. and ... More Post a comment
Margaret Discovers Parsnips Published Nov. 21, 2007
Avenue 5 *** (Very Good) 2760 Fifth Avenue (between Nutmeg and Olive Streets), Bankers Hill, 619-542-0394, http://avenue5restaurant.com. HOURS: Lunch Tuesday--Friday 11:30 a.m.--2:30 p.m.; dinner Tuesday--Sunday ... More Post a comment
Mamacitas and Lobster Published Nov. 15, 2007
Super Cocina is the secret destination of San Diego gringos who love authentic home-style Mexican food. (It's no secret to local Latinos, of course.) If ... More Post a comment
Thanksgiving in the Ashes Published Nov. 8, 2007
My heart goes out to all who will have to give thanks for their lives and families in restaurants this year instead of at home, ... More Post a comment
Six Hundred Quarters Published Nov. 1, 2007
Is Quarter Kitchen the proverbial riddle wrapped in an enigma? The glam new high-end restaurant at the Ivy Hotel has been getting loads of "buzz" ... More Post a comment
Starlite Lounge Published Oct. 25, 2007
Samurai Jim, so much "scenier" than I am, suggested that we check out the Starlite Lounge. Normally, I steer clear of lounges, sports bars, etc., ... More Post a comment
Mainland Mexico Published Oct. 18, 2007
With the passing of Chilango's in Hillcrest, I've begun a quest for other authentic Mexican restaurants in the city. By "authentic," I mean restaurants serving ... More Post a comment
Thais That Bind Published Oct. 11, 2007
She's holding on to his little tusks with both hands. She nuzzles her face right into his trunk, between his eyes. You can tell they're ... More Post a comment
Good and Plenty Published Oct. 11, 2007
Bay Area--based chef Bradley Ogden is still the official guiding spirit at Arterra, but ever since executive chef Carl Schroeder left to open his own ... More Post a comment
Fred Is the Bomb Published Oct. 4, 2007
Ask great things of people," says Lee, "and they will respond. Teachers have to expect their students to do well." Lee's a teacher. Professor, actually. ... More Post a comment
Singin' the Bleus Published Oct. 4, 2007
Bleu Bohème, the new hot spot in Kensington, opened this summer on the former site of Green Tomato, which apparently rotted on the vine and ... More Post a comment
Top of the Neighborhood Published Sept. 27, 2007
Restaurateur Tracy Borkum (Laurel, Chive, Kensington Grill) is a demanding mistress. Chefs who don't meet her exalted standards (or who don't want to meet them) ... More Post a comment
Satori on a Stick Published Sept. 20, 2007
"Want skin as smooth as a baby's bottom?" say a couple of handmade signs at Yakitori Yakyudori. "Try our Kawasu!" They're not touting some new ... More Post a comment
Wickedest Published Sept. 20, 2007
"Skogging, man. You should be skogging." Say what? "Everyone else is, down Mission Beach, PB. It's the Next Big Thing. Shake off all those carbs ... More Post a comment
Holy Mole Published Sept. 13, 2007
Sammy Sosa leans over confidentially. "It was a special treat for the king. For the Aztec king. Ordinary people couldn't eat it." I look at ... More Post a comment
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